Hem folder



July 28, 1964 J. A. JORDAN 3,142,277

HEM FOLDER Filed May ll, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 /f 1 -2..- "T3 T c' WIS 4' fix??? I 2,5 ii

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HEM FOLDER Filed May ll, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. @IEP/l J'aDHA( BY 69, has@ ,4 TTRNE'YS United States Patent O 3,142,277 HEM FLDER Joseph A. `Iordan, Tuscaloosa, Aia., assigner to US. Blind Stitch Machine Corporation, New York, NY., a corporation of New York Filed May Il, i962, Ser. No. 193,992 Claims. (Cl. 3112-143) This invention relates to an improved hem folder, and in particular relates to an improved hem folder for use in folding the hems of tubular fabrics for sewing on a blindstitch machine.

A typical blindstitch machine includes a laterally extending cylindrical anvil attached at its inner end to one side of the machine, and also includes means to blindstitch fabric laid on vthe top of the anvil at a point located outwardly of the inner end of the anvil. A machine of this type is particularly useful in the hemrning of tubular fabrics such as trouser legs. Specically, it is often desired to form such a tubular fabric with its free end portion turned outwardly on itself to form a continuous hem. The free end portion of the hem is then folded under between the hem and the main body of the fabric, and the tube is extended over the anvil and turned while the blindstitching takes place until a continuous circumferential line of stitching is formed to secure together the hem, the folded under portion and the main body of the fabric.

In modern high speed sewing operations, it is particularly advantageous to employ a folding attachment which will automatically provide the proper length of the hem and automatically make the fold as the fabric is being turned over the anvil during the stitching operation. However, such a folding attachment presents the particular problem that just before the conclusion of the stitching operation, the previously formed line of stitching, which is not yet quite complete, engages the folder. Accordingly, means have to be provided for permitting the fabric to slip off the folder for the last few stitches so as to permit the stitching to be completed.

An important object of this invention is to provide a folder of the above-described type which has no moving parts but which, nevertheless, will permit the completion of the entire circumferential stitching operation with a minimum of effort on the part of the operator, and without the necessity of the operator manually removing the material from the folder for the last few stitches.

Another object of the invention is to provide a folder which is economical to manufacture and which is substantially foolproof in operation, and which further requires a minimum of servicing.

In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, I provide an attachment comprising a longitudinally extending edge guide which may be adjustably mounted on the anvil adjacent the inner edge thereof. The attachment further comprises a lateral support arm which is laterally adjustably mounted on the anvil with the support arm extending laterally outwardly of the edge guide and located adjacent the front of the anvil. The folder includes a first folder leg depending from the outer end of the support arm, a folder arm extending inwardly from the lower end of the folder leg and spaced from the edge guide and a second folder leg extending upwardly from the inner end of the folder arm toward and terminating short of the support arm, the rst folder leg being laterally outwardly of and the second folder leg laterally inwardly of the point of stitching of the fabric on the anvil.

Edge guide means as such are known, and folders of the type described above are generally known, but up to the present the application of such folder to the hernming of tubular fabrics on a blindstitch machine has not ICC been satisfactory because there has existed no simple means for automatically removing the fabric from the folder for the last few stitches of the sewing operation.

In accordance with the invention, a kickout arm is connected to the upper end of the second folder leg. This kickout arm extends forwardly and laterally outwardly from the second folder leg and terminates laterally outwardly of the first folder leg. Preferably, the inner edge of the kickout arm is convex and serves as a cam edge.

In the operation of the folder, the fabric is extended over the anvil with its turn initially placed against the edge guide and with the hem extending under the support arm and against the first folder leg. The hem is folded under the folder arm with the free edge of the folded under portion abutting the second folder leg. Once the beginning of the fold has been established at the folder, the continued turning of the fabric tube causes the desired hem length automatically to be maintained and further causes the folding operation automatically to take place. Accordingly, by merely turning the fabric while it is being stitched, the desired configuration is automatically obtained.

Ultimately, as the fabric is turned, the beginning of the line of stitching strikes the cam edge of the kickout arm. The line of stitching thereby rides inwardly against the kickout arm until it is located inwardly of the second folder leg, this causing the fabric to be drawn inwardly out of the folder legs and arm. The fabric being drawn out of the folder, it falls below the folder arm. This permits the continued turning of the fabric until the stitching is complete. It will be appreciated that for the last few stitches, the fold has been established and the folder is no longer necessary.

It has been found in actual practice that the folder is highly efficient, and that in fact it makes it possible to dispense with the services of the skilled operator previously needed in order to make this type of hem.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the following description, in connection with the annexed drawing, in which a preferred embodiment of the invention is disclosed.

In the drawing, FIG. l is a perspective View of the attachment in accordance with this invention, showing it applied to a blindstitch machine which is shown fragmentarily and in phantom View.

FIG. 2 is a top plan view of the attachment, the anvil of the sewing machine being shown fragmentarily and in phantom view.

FIG. 3 is a front elevational view of the attachment, the sewing machine being shown fragmentarily and in phantom.

FIG. 4 is a ssection on line 4-4 of FIG. 2 and shows the anvil phantom view.

FIG. 5 is a fragmentary top plan view of the attachment, showing the tubular fabric at the beginning of the folding and stitching thereof.

FIG. 6 is a view similar to FIG. 5, and showing the beginning of the line of stitching as it approaches the kickout arm, just prior to the kickout operation.

FIG. 7 is a view similar to FIGS. 5 and 6, showing the fabric being kicked out from the folder.

FIG. 8 is a View similar to FIGS. 5, 6 and 7 showing the completion of the stitching operation.

FIG. 9 is a fragmentary section on the fabric showing the hem prior to the folding thereof, and as taken on line 9-9 of FIG. 5.

FIG. l0 is :a section on line 10-10 of FIG. 6.

FIG. ll is a section on line 11-11 of FIG. 7.

FIG. l2 is a section on line 12-12 of FIG. 8.

FIG. 13 is a fragmentary perspective view of the tubular fabric at the completion of the hemming operation.

The drawings are substantially to scale of a working embodiment of the invention, and reference is made to the drawings to complete the diclosure herein.

In the detailed description which follows, the condition of the fabric shown in the drawing will be assumed to be its normal condition. In other words, it will be assumed that in forming the hem, the fabric is folded outwardly upon itself. Such orientation of the fabric is assumed, because this is the inside out position of the fabric while it is being sewn. Of course, it will be clearly understood that after the hem is completed, the fabric shown in FIG. 13 will then be turned right side out.

Upon reference to the drawing in detail, it will be noted that FIG. 1 shows in phantom view, and fragmentarily, a sewing machine having a fiat frame portion 11 with a horizontal upper surface 11a upon which the attachment is to be mounted. A generally cylindrical anvil 12 extends laterally outwardly and horizontally from the outside of frame member 11. Preferably, the machine 10 is a blindstitch machine. It includes a needle 13, and conventional associated apparatus (not shown because it does not form a part of this invention) for the purpose of forming successive blind stitches at point P shown in FIG. 2 and other views. As will be described in further detail below, when a tubular fabric is placed over anvil 12 and turned, the successive stitches formed by needle 13 form a line of stitches which ultimately extends circumferentially around the entire band of fabric.

The stitch point P is located generally on the top of the anvil and outwardly of the inner end of the anvil.

The particular product which is to be produced on the machine 10, with the help of the improved attachment disclosed therein, comprises a tubular fabric 20. As shown in FIG. 13, said tubular fabric may be formed by taking a length of fabric and stitching its ends in the direction of length to form a seam 21, but it will be apparent that the tube 20 may be formed by any suitable means. In accordance with comon practice, such tube 20, which may for example be a trouser leg, is finished by means of a hem. Such hem is formed by turning one end portion 22 of the tube 20 outwardly upon itself, along circumferential fold line 20a, as shown in FIG. 13 and other views, to form a hem. In order to stitch hem 22 to the main tubular band of fabric, the free end portion 23 is folded under itself, as shown in FIG. 10 and other views. The band of fabric is then turned on anvil 12, with needle 13 forming successive stitches, so as to secure together the hem 22, folded under portion 23 and main band of fabric 20 together, the line of stitching being designated by the reference numeral 25.

In order to regulate the length of the hem and to control the folding operation, so as to minimize the task of the operator, I provide an attachment 30. Attachment includes a fiat plate 31 which is mounted upon the upper face 11a of frame portion 11. Said plate 31 has a laterally elongated slot 32, and a pair of laterally spaced screws 33 are extended through slot 32 and into appropriate threaded holes of frame member 11. It will be apparent that the plate 31 is laterally adjustable.

A laterally extending and elongated bar 34 overlies plate 31 and also extends laterally outwardly thereof. Said bar 34 has a laterally elongated slot 35 adjacent its inner end, and screw 36 extends through slot 35 and into an appropriate threaded hole of plate 31. It will be apparent that bar 34 is also laterally adjustable. Longitudinal edge guide 37 is fixed to the outer end of bar 34. Said edge guide 37 is in the form of a plate which extends vertically and longitudinally and which overlies anvil 12 adjacent the inner end thereof. Said edge guide 37 also extends forwardly of anvil 12. The portion of edge guide 37 which overlies anvil 12 has a concave lower edge 37a so as closely to conform to the anvil 12. While any suitable means may be employed to secure the edge guide plate 37 to bar 34, optionally bar 34 is formed at its inner end with a perpendicular downwardly extending fiange 34a which is fixed to the inner face of edge guide plate l 37 by any suitable means (not shown) such as welding.

Further in accordance with the invention, the folding attachment is supported by means of a laterally extending, elongated support arm 40. Said arm 40 is in the form of a bar and extends horizontally as well as laterally. The inner end of support arm 40 is integrally connected to a further rearwardly extending arm 41 whose outer edge is integral with a depending flange 42, this flange 42 being located rearwardly of bar 34 and being fixed to plate 31 integrally or by any other suitable means. The arm 41 extends forwardly of flange 42 over bar 34, with support arm 40 being located adjacent the front edge of bar 34 and extending over the front portion of the upper edge 37b of plate 37. It will be apparent that arm 40 may be laterally adjusted relative to plate 37.

In order to form the folder, the outer end of arm 40 is curved smoothly downwardly, then inwardly and upwardly to form first or outer folder leg 50, folder arm 51 and second or inner folder leg 52. Said first folder leg 50 depends from the outer end of support arm 40 and is somewhat curved in shape as clearly shown in FIG. 3. Folder arm 51 extends inwardly from first folder leg 5!) and is spaced below and parallel to support arm 40. Arm 51 is relatively short and its inner end is located outwardly of edge guide plate 37. Second folder leg 52 extends generally upwardly from the inner end of folder arm 51 in opposition to and generally parallel to first folder leg Sil. As shown in FIG. 3, the second folder leg 52 is oppositely curved to folder leg 50. In other words, the inner surfaces of these legs are oppositely concave.

In use, support arm 4t) is laterally adjusted so that the stitch point P is located laterally between first folder leg 50 and second folder leg 52, the exact orientation depending upon exactly where the stitching is to be located relative to the folded under fabric portion 23. The lateral adjustment of the edge guide plate 37 then determines the overall length of the hem 22. For convenience, the stitch line 25 is shown diagrammatically in FIGS. 2 and 3 to emphasize its location laterally between the legs 50 and 52.

In particular accordance with the invention, kickout arm 60 is attached to the upper end of second folder leg 52. Preferably, these two parts are integral. Said arm 6i) is bar-like and extends horizontally and merges smoothly with the curved leg 52. Said bar or arm 60 is of generally uniform width and is curved generally in the form of an arc of a circle so as to extend forwardly of the folder elements 50, 51 and 52, and then to curve laterally outwardly. Said kickout arm 60 accordingly passes laterally outwardly of the longitudinal line of leg 50 at a point spaced forwardly thereof, and further, curves forwardly outwardly to terminate at an end edge 6011 located laterally outwardly of leg 50. Said bar 60 has a convex cam edge 60a located at the inner side and then the front thereof, at the outer portion thereof. For convenience, edge 60a will be defined as the inner edge of kickout arm 60.

In operation, the fabric tube is first extended over anvil 12 and under folder arm 51. Edge fold 20a is started in the vicinity of attachment 30, with the fold line 20a being located against the longitudinal edge guide 37 and with the fabric turned outwardly on itself along Said fold 20 to form the hem 22. The hem 22 is extended laterally from the fold line 20a along the underside of the support arm 40 and is extended against the leg 50 and over the arm 51 in order to establish the beginning of the fold-under 23. The fabric forwardly of ,fold edge 20 remains unfolded, as indicated by the fact that the fold portion 23 is exposed in FIG. 5. FIG. 10 shows the condition of the fold at the folder 30. The free edge 23a of the folded under fabric portion 23 extends substantially to the inner or second folder leg 52. While the somewhat diagrammatic view of FIG. 10 shows the fabric 23 as resting closely against the under surface vmaintained without the need of a folder.

of kickout arm 60, it will be apparent that the material 23 may sag somewhat in the location of folder 30.

As shown in FIG. 5, the fabric is turned or moved in the direction of arrow 5, or in other words, the fabric above anvil 12 moves rearwardly and the fabric below anvil 12 correspondingly moves forwardly. As shown in FIG. 5, the needle 13 forms the stitch line 25. Very little guidance into the hem is needed by the operator since the continued movement of the fabric in the direction of arrow automatically causes the fabric portion 23 to be folded in the manner shown in FIG. 10. The result is that the stitching 25 connects the main fabric 20, the hem 22 and the fold portion 23.

As shown in FIG. 6, upon further turning of the fabric, the beginning point 25a of the stitching reaches the kickout arm inner cam edge 60a. The kickout arm extends sufciently laterally outwardly of the stitching line 25 to insure that the stitching will not inadvertently pass around the outer end of the kickout arm.

As shown in FIG. 7, the line of stitching 25 rides along the cam edge 6fm of kickout arm 60. This pulls the seam 22 and the fold material 23 out of the folder members, over the kickout arm 69. This is shown in FIGS. 7 and 11. Once the fabric is clear inwardly of the kickout arm 60, it drops below the kickout arm and slides under folder arm 51 so that the fold edge 20a is again uniform. It will be apparent that if necessary, maintaining the tubular band under some radial tension will facilitate the action shown in FIG. 8. For the few remaining stitches, the folded under portion 23 will be properly As the band is further turned, the stitching 25 is completed back to its starting point 25a, as shown in FIG. 8. FIG. 12 shows the manner in which the fabric is then located below the folder members.

At the conclusion of the stitching, the fabric may be withdrawn in the usual manner from the anvil, in which case it appears as shown in FIG. 13. The tubular band of fabric may then be turned right side out in the usual way.

While I have disclosed a preferred embodiment of my invention, and have indicated various changes, omissions and additions which may be made therein, it will be apparent that various other changes, omissions and additions may be made in the invention without departing from the scope and spirit thereof.

What is claimed is:

1. Attachment for the laterally extending cylindrical anvil of a blindstitch sewing machine for forming a fold in a tubular band of fabric as said fabric is turned over the anvil before being stitched, said attachment being made in one continuous piece comprising means positioned and operative upon the Vfabric as it is turned over the anvil to fold said fabric before it is stitched, said means opening on its side to permit lateral separation of said fabric from said means, and a kickout arm fixed in position and xed to and extending forwardly and laterally outwardly ahead of said means and also away from its side opening and extending laterally across the stitch line of said fabric and terminating outwardly of said means, said arm having a leading edge shaped and inclined to be struck by the beginning of the stitch line and to force said fabric inwardly to separate said fabric from said means.

2. Attachment for use in a blindstitch machine having a frame, a laterally extending cylindrical anvil having an inner end attached to one side of the machine, and means to stitch fabric laid on the top of said anvil at a point located outwardly of the inner end of the anvil;

the attachment being used in making a tubular fabric having one end portion turned outwardly on itself to form a continuous hem, the free end portion of the hem being folded under between the hem and the main body of the fabric, the hem, the folded under portion and the main body of the fabric being secured together by a circumferential line of stitching;

the attachment comprising a longitudinally extending edge guide, means laterally adjustably mounting said edge guide on said anvil adjacent the inner end thereof, a folder, means laterally adjustably mounting said folder on said anvil outwardly of said edge guide, said folder being made in one continuous piece and comprising means positioned and operative upon the fabric as said fabric is turned over the anvil to fold it before being stitched, said means opening inwardly to permit lateral separation of said fabric from said folder, and a kickout arm fixed in one position and fixed to and extending forwardly and laterally outwardly of said folder and also away from the opening of said means and extending laterally across the stitch line of said fabric and terminating outwardly of said folder, said arm having an inclined inner edge shaped to be struck by the beginning of the stitch line and to force said fabric inwardly to separate said fabric from said folder;

whereby the fabric can be extended over the anvil with its turn at said edge guide being extended into said folder to establish the beginning of the folding under of the fabric, and the fabric can be turned while being stitched with the folding automatically continuing until the line of stitching strikes the kickout arm, the line of stitching thereby riding inwardly against the kickout arm until it is located inwardly of said second folder leg and at the same time drawing the fabric inwardly and out of the folder, thereby permitting the fabric to fall below said folder arm Ato permit the continued turning of the fabric until the stitching is complete.

3. Attachment for use in a blindstitch sewing machine having a frame, a laterally extending cylindrical anvil having an inner end attached to one side of the machine, means to stitch fabric laid on the top of said anvil at a point located outwardly of the inner end of said anvil, and a longitudinally extending edge guide mounted on said anvil adjacent the inner end thereof;

the attachment being made in one continuous piece and used in making a tubular fabric having one end portion turned outwardly on the main body of the fabric to form a continuous hem, the free end portion of the hem being folded under between the hem and the main body of the fabric, the hem, the folded under portion and the main body of the fabric being secured together by a circumferential line of stitching;

the attachment comprising a lateral support arm, means mounting said support arm on said anvil with said support arm extending laterally outwardly of said edge guide and located adjacent the front of said anvil, a first folder leg depending from the outer end of said support arm, a folder arm extending laterally inwardly from the lower end of said folder leg and spaced from said edge guide, a second folder leg extending upwardly from the inner end of said folder arm towards but terminating short of said support arm, said first folder leg and said second folder leg being adapted to be located laterally outwardly and laterally inwardly respectively of said stitch line, and a kickout arm fixed in one position and connected to the upper end of said second folder leg, said kickout arm extending forwardly and laterally outwardly from said second folder leg and terminating laterally outwardly of said iirst folder les;

whereby the fabric can be extended over the anvil with its turn at said edge guide and with the hem being extended under said support arm and against said first folder leg and said folder arm to establish the beginning of the folding under of the fabric, the free edge of the folded under portion abutting said second folder leg, and the fabric can be turned while being stitched with the folding automatically continuing until the line of stitching strikes the kickout arm, the line of stitching thereby riding inwardly against the kickout arm until it is located inwardly of said second folder leg and at the same time drawing the fabric inwardly out of the folder legs and arm, thereby permitting the fabric to fall below said folder arm to permit the continued turning of the fabric until the stitching is complete.

4. Attachment for use in a blindstitch sewing machine, having a frame, a laterally extending cylindrical anvil having an inner end attached to one side of the machine, and means to stitch fabric laid on the top of said anvil at a point located outwardly of the inner end of the anvil;

the attachment being used in making a tubular fabric having one end portion turned outwardly on the main body of the fabric to form a continuous hem, the free end portion of the hem being folded under between the hem and the main body of the fabric, the hem, the folded under portion and the main body of the fabric being secured together by a circumferential line of stitching;

the attachment comprising a longitudinally extending edge guide, means laterally adjustably mounting said edge guide on said anvil adjacent the inner end thereof, a folder being made in one continuous piece and comprising a lateral support arm, means laterally adjustably mounting said support arm on said anvil with said support arm extending laterally outwardly of said edge guided and located adjacent the front of said anvil, a first folder leg depending from the outer end of said support arm, a folder arm extending laterally inwardly from the lower end of said folder leg and spaced from said edge guide, a second folder leg extending upwardly from the inner end of said folder arm towards but terminating short of said support arm, said first folder leg and said second folder leg being adapted to be located laterally outwardly and laterally inwardly respectively of said stitch line, and a kickout arm fixed in one position and connected to the upper end of said second folder leg, said kickout arm extending forwardly and laterally outwardly from said second folder leg and terminating laterally outwardly of said first folder leg;

whereby the fabric can be extended over the anvil with its turn at said edge guide and with the hem being extended under said support arm and against said first folder leg and said folder arm to establish the beginning of the folding under of the fabric, the

free edge of the folded under portion abutting said second folder leg, and the fabric can be turned while being stitched with the folding automatically continuing until the line of stitching strikes the kickout arm, the line of stitching thereby riding inwardly against the kickout arm until it is located inwardly of said second folder leg and at the same time drawing the fabric inwardly out of the folder legs and arm, thereby permitting the fabric to fall below said folder arm to permit the continued turning of the fabric until the stitching is complete.

5. Attachment for the laterally extending cylindrical anvil of a blindstitch sewing machine for forming a fold in a tubular band of fabric as said fabric is turned over the anvil before being stitched, a longitudinally extending edge guide, means laterally adjustably mounting said edge guide on said anvil adjacent the inner end thereof, said attachment being made in one continuous piece and comprising a lateral support arm, means laterally adjustably mounting said support arm on said anvil with said support arm located forwardly of the stitch line, a first folder leg depending from the outer end of said support arm, a folder arm extending laterally inwardly from the lower end of said first folder leg and spaced from said edge guide, a second folder leg extending upwardly from the inner end of said folder arm towards but terminating short of said support arm, said first folder leg and said second folder leg being adapted to be located laterally outwardly and laterally inwardly respectively of said stitch line, and a kickout arm connected to the upper end of said second folder-leg, said kickout arm extending forwardly and laterally outwardly from said second folder leg and terminating laterally outwardly of said first folder leg, said kickout arm xed in one position and having an inner cam edge extending to the front thereof and extending across the line of stitching formed in the band of fabric as it is turned over the anvil, the line of stitching being thereby adapted to ride laterally inwardly against the cam edge of the kickout arm until the line of stitching is located laterally inwardly of said second folder leg and at the same time drawing the fabric inwardly out of the folder legs and arm, thereby permitting the fabric to fall below said folder arm to permit the continued turning of the fabric until the stitching is complete.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,495,254 DeVoe May 27, 1924 1,625,753 Thomas Apr. 19, 1927 1,857,032 Schnurrbusch May 3, 1932 

1. ATTACHMENT FOR THE LATERALLY EXTENDING CYLINDRICAL ANVIL OF A BLINDSTITCH SEWING MACHINE FOR FORMING A FOLD IN A TUBULAR BAND OF FABRIC AS SAID FABRIC IS TURNED OVER THE ANVIL BEFORE BEING STITCHED, SAID ATTACHMENT BEING MADE IN ONE CONTINUOUS PIECE COMPRISING MEANS POSITIONED AND OPERATIVE UPON THE FABRIC AS IT IS TURNED OVER THE ANVIL TO FOLD SAID FABRIC BEFORE IT IS STICHED, SAID MEANS OPENING ON ITS SIDE TO PERMIT LATERAL SEPARATION OF SAID FABRIC FROM SAID MEANS, AND A KICKOUT ARM FIXED IN POSITION AND FIXED TO AND EXTENDING FORWARDLY AND LATERALLY OUTWARDLY AHEAD OF SAID MEANS AND ALSO AWAY FROM ITS SIDE OPENING AND EXTENDING LATERALLY ACROSS THE STITCH LINE OF SAID FABRIC AND TERMINATING OUTWARDLY OF SAID MEANS, SAID ARM HAVING A LEADING EDGE SHAPED AND INCLINED TO BE STRUCK BY THE BEGINNING OF THE STITCH LINE AND TO FORCE SAID FABRIC INWARDLY TO SEPARATE SAID FABRIC FROM SAID MEANS. 